Helsinki: 19-22 August
Apparently, Helsinki is yellow, at least by architectural choice, but that didn’t apply to Home Hotel Katajanokka, which is housed in the city’s old gaol. Don’t let the origins put you off this hotel, because it was absolutely one of the most hospitable places we have been. A great breakfast, afternoon tea (fikka) and a simple evening meal, all on the house. A lobby bar, fitness room and big, light-filled rooms at a reasonable price–I’d like to see this concept used more widely, and as it was in the peninsular of Katajanokka surrounded by apartments, it felt much more relaxed than a standard hotel.
We didn’t have time to explore the hotel until much later, as we had gone straight from the airport by train and team to Katajanokka to dump our bags and head out for a walking tour. We had a great guide who led us briskly for two hours around the markets, docks and centre, although I wouldn’t endorse all of her aesthetic judgements! We did learn, however, that the old city ‘look’ is due to a Russian emperor employing a German architect to create a Parisian look in his provincial city.
Helsinki is clean, small, defined by its harbour and history, and easy to get around. Most of the modern buildings are great designs, with some dishonourable exceptions! We didn’t do sauna, but there was one just for the tourists near one of the ferry terminals. And when I say ferry terminals, they ain’t no rivercats, sister. We will take the Tallinn ferry tomorrow and it takes 3000 passengers and hundreds of cars.
We were surprised at hints of past conflicts that were in our tour. Sweden is still regarded with a little suspicion as the former ruling power, even though Russia was the most recent conqueror and the Soviet Union the most recent aggressor. There is a clearly some tension between the Swedish minority and the Finn majority since the Civil War a century ago. But like most European countries, the Ukrainian flag was everywhere.
Our tour finished at the city library, which was the most extraordinary building and institution we’ve seen, an architectural dream that rethink what a library should be, as a social space, a making place (3D printers everywhere, sound studios and print shops), communal food and drink, and bookable spaces and technology everywhere. And yes, there were lots of books, but for everyday reading rather than academic study. Amazing, with views out to the neoclassical parliament and the Sibelius Centre — the only time he got a mention, to my surprise.
