The low road
Today (Friday 5 October) took us from Gairlochy to Laggan Locks, along the shores of Loch Locky. For most of the day, it didn’t feel like we were walking the path of the Canal, as the path took a more varied route through the pine forests and woods. The weather was kind, with a couple of light showers being the only interruption to some lovely sunny spells.
Our B and B last night was great (Distant Hills in Spean Bridge, if anyone is doing Scotland in the future) with lovely hosts and a spectacular meal at Russell’s Restaurant nearby. It was a relaxing and enjoyable evening and we came away wondering how a small town in the middle of the Highlands got to host such a gem!
Peter, our host, picked us up from Gairlochy because there is absolutely nowhere to stay or even keep dry by the locks, and he introduced us to the Commando Memorial on the road into town. All the original commandos (20,000 of them) were trained around – and in– Loch Locky, and the path today took us past many memories of their training ground, particularly the base at Achnacarry, which the volunteers reached after a 13 km route march with all kit from the station in Spean Bridge.
The training developed from raiding in small boat to the sort of opposed landing that the commandos carried out in support of the D-Day and Walcheren operations, and we walked past the boathouse where the original small craft were kept. The hills around the loch are absolutely brutal and the idea that the troops would do stuff like a forced march of 12 miles in 120 minutes followed by a live fire drill shows how far ahead their training was than anyone else’s. All special forces training originated here – quite amazing. We even passed the remains of a concrete landing craft, used to practice rapid deployment under fire.
As always, we met nice people on the walk – walkers and riders in Britain seems always friendly and polite. The tranquility of the path, only interrupted by the constant sound of small waterfalls pouring down to the loch, was just what we needed, and the autumn colours are really coming into their own – perhaps more subdued that an American fall, perhaps painted in oils rather than two-pack enamel!
We were getting pretty tired by the time we got to South Laggan Locks, and discovered that we had to slog another two kilometres two get to the B and B. It was worth it, because the two women who run Forest Lodge yelled a greeting up the driveway as we staggered in and welcomed us warmly.
Lorraine and Laura were absolute hoots and ex -schoolies from Essex, and maybe we should have stayed and had dinner with them instead of the very quirky Eagle Barge, but you can only do one thing at a time! Tomorrow’s weather looks spectacular and the path much easier, so two tired bodies are heading to bed.
A brief summary of the day…
