Day 6: to Sorano, uphill!
This afternoon we sat in our room, high up above Sorano in the fortress, and watched a violent storm lash the medieval town. It has been that kind of day, filled with unusual discoveries and breathtaking moments, finishing with an unusual meal in what was once the gatehouse to the Orsini’s old castle.
We knew the weather would be rather challenging today, with rain and storms forecast for the late morning, and so we left Sovana at a reasonable time and after an excellent breakfast. The sun was still shining but the dark clouds were coming overhead as we climbed uphill through the vines, most still heavy with dark fruit. The other Australian couple, who we would come to despise during the next 24 hours, were slightly ahead of us and we were in two minds as to whether to overtake or to stop and let them go.
As the lightning started to flicker in the distance, they disappeared, and we came across them seated with intense concentration around a small drone. I’ve traveled with a lot of drones before, but this was the first time I’d seen one with rechargeable batteries and the ability to take off and land vertically. All at once, Paula’s misgivings became clear – they were middle-aged techno-wankers. Should we stay and hope that their aerial photography resulted in some catastrophic electrical discharge from the storm? Our better angels intervened, and we took off uphill. In any case, we might have become accomplices to divine intervention.
A brief wrong turning provided a delay, but it meant that when the first storm hit, we could take cover in some abandoned shed beside a derelict farmhouse. The wet weather gear went on; then, in the manner beloved of hikers the world over, it stopped as soon as we started serious walking. A benevolent God was chuckling.
The path to Sorano gave us teasing views of an imposing double fortress, above a forbidding ravine; and, naturally, we were led into the ravine so we could experience entry to the castle through the old medieval gate, Porta Merli.
These were the deepest via cave so far, 20 feet deep in places, steep and like green tunnels. These were the back roads used by the peasants going out to the fields or trading between towns. The only road ran along the top of the plateau and gave access through the castles.
Walkers know that downhills are uphills, and the narrow streets up through the town we’re at a 45-degree angle at times. Many houses at the lowest level were deserted, but further up it became clear that there was a healthy tourist industry, as well as home for many local farm workers. Sorano is a time capsule, because the Papal States ignored the whole area for centuries after the Orsini were forced out by the Medici.
Our hotel was in the medieval fortress, and notwithstanding its forbidding outlook, was comfortable and had an amazing view. Dinner was a tasting plate of local goods and was a nice change, although the drones were at another table boring the crap out of an equally boring American couple. It was clearly some sort of game involving elongated sentences and strict rules on taking a breath. We enjoyed the dinner and the company at our table, highlighted by Allan’s foray into international communication when I decided to have a grappa and he wanted a liqueur too. I’m not sure we will have the same level of accommodation at San Quirico!
